A winter chalet on the Côte-Nord: cross-country skiing, snowmobiling and a fire

In winter the shore turns white, the river freezes in patches and the tourists leave. That is exactly the time to come, if you know what to do with your days.

The shore and birches at Pointe-Lebel in February

People tend to think of the Côte-Nord as a summer destination. The chalet stays open all winter, though, and it is often the favourite season of those who try it: an empty beach, low light on the ice, and a region with far more to offer than people expect if you like the outdoors.

The chalet in winter

Heated all year, with a fireplace that really heats and firewood supplied.
Entrance cleared of snow before you arrive.
Fibre internet and a desk facing the water, for those coming to work remotely.
Self check-in from 4 pm, with the lock code sent the day before.

Cross-country skiing and snowshoeing

Baie-Comeau, twenty minutes away, has two cross-country ski centres. Les Sentiers de la rivière Amédée has about a dozen trails totalling nearly 39 km, from easy to difficult, a good share of them groomed for skate skiing. The site also has snowshoe trails, about 7 km of fat bike trails, heated chalets and equipment rental.

Norfond, at the foot of Mont Ti-Basse, grooms its trails through the Rivière aux Anglais valley, with ski rental including for children. Its season usually runs from December to mid-March, depending on snow.

Closer still, the trails of the Parc Nature de Pointe-aux-Outardes stay open for snowshoeing in winter, and access is only charged in summer. The washrooms are closed in the cold season, so plan accordingly.

Downhill skiing

Mont Ti-Basse, about 22 km away, is Baie-Comeau's small family ski hill: skiing, snowboarding, and a small-town feel. Perfect for half a day with children.

Snowmobiling

Baie-Comeau is a well-known stop for snowmobilers, on Trans-Québec trail 3 along the Côte-Nord. Several outfitters offer rentals and guided expeditions there, including to the Groulx Mountains, from January to April.

To ride the federated trails you need an access permit from the Fédération des clubs de motoneigistes du Québec, and trail conditions are on its live iMotoneige map. If you are bringing a trailer, write to Catherine before booking to check parking.

The river in winter

This is the show you won't see anywhere else. The tide lifts and breaks the ice twice a day, and the shore fills with blocks that change shape from one day to the next. You watch it from the living room window with a coffee, or walking the frozen beach in good boots.

Don't venture onto the river ice: it moves with the tide, even when it looks solid.

The road

Route 138 is ploughed and maintained, but conditions change fast on the Côte-Nord. Check Québec 511 before leaving, keep the tank full and leave slack in your schedule. From Quebec City, allow about four and a half hours in good weather.